Tanzania and Kenya

Upon arriving in Dar and completing the check-in processes, I needed to secure the Destiny on a mooring before my trip to Kenya for the safari. The two crew members were also planning their safari but chose to explore Tanzania instead. The Serengeti National Park and the Masai Mara are essentially part of the same plains, divided only by the political boundary between Tanzania and Kenya.

On June 29th, while I was busy preparing the boat for layup, I received a call informing me that my oldest pet, Loki, had stopped walking. This was due to medical issues related to hip dysplasia and arthritis. His condition, along with the impact it had on Annie, who needed to care for him, was one of the main reasons that ultimately changed the duration of my sail. It was a very difficult time for all of us, and he did not look well at all.

Constant communication continued, but I had to travel for the safari since all the tickets and bookings were already made. At this juncture, I did this with a very heavy heart.

My trip to Tanzania included a visit to Zanzibar, an island that evokes the romance and mystique of Africa. My adventure in Africa began here. While many cruisers typically sail from Dar es Salaam and navigate around Zanzibar, I chose a different approach. Since I was alone and wanted to keep my spot in the Dar mooring field, I left my boat, Destiny, and travelled to the island. Destiny, and travelled to the island.

Stonetown is where I decided to stay. It exudes the charm of a former slave trading island, rich in spices. The spices here are familiar to me, as I come from Southeast Asia, where many of these spices are widely available throughout the region and in South Asia as well. However, Stonetown is particularly beautiful, especially with its old architecture. I have a few favourite pictures from my time here, and they truly capture the sights, colours, and sounds of Zanzibar.

After Tanzania and Zanzibar, I headed to Nairobi, Kenya, to start my Safari in the Masai Mara.

One of the primary reasons I chose to land in East Africa instead of Madagascar (Mada) was the troublesome landing requirements imposed by the Malagasy government. Ever since the onset of COVID-19, numerous countries have struggled to lift their travel restrictions, and Madagascar has been particularly slow to adapt. The regulations in place are often quite absurd and, unfortunately, have not been alleviated, creating significant obstacles for sailing vessels trying to enter the country.

It’s worth noting that Madagascar is still grappling with the challenges of being a developing nation. The lingering COVID restrictions have taken a heavy toll on their economy, yet the continued prohibition of sailboats from docking seems like a missed opportunity for both the country and visiting sailors. My dream of sailing has always included exploring lesser-known destinations that aren’t typically frequented by Malaysians, which ultimately led to my disappointment in not being able to experience the unique culture and beauty of Madagascar.

The enchanting experience of witnessing the magnificent wildlife of Africa, especially the regal big cats, is truly irresistible. The national parks in Kenya, with their sprawling landscapes and diverse ecosystems, offer a breathtaking backdrop for this adventure. One of the park's most remarkable events is the annual migration of the wildebeest, a spectacular phenomenon where millions of these animals embark on an incredible journey spanning thousands of miles from their breeding grounds in Tanzania to the lush plains of Kenya, specifically from the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara.

This migration is intricately linked to the mating season, and during this time, the forests and savannas come alive with a symphony of activity. The air buzzes with the sounds of different species interacting, as both large predators and smaller creatures take advantage of the abundance of food and the vibrant energy in the environment. July marks the beginning of this mesmerizing event, although the exact timing can fluctuate. Generally, it unfolds throughout July and beyond, coinciding with the southern hemisphere's winter, transforming the landscape into a thriving ecosystem teeming with life and vitality.

One major attraction is the Big Five, which includes the Lion, Elephant, Buffalo, Rhinoceros, and Leopard. Additionally, I was also interested in seeing the cheetah, another big cat. Without a doubt, this was my primary reason for visiting the national parks.

I wasn’t able to witness the migration since it hadn’t started yet, but I did see many other animals, including the elusive Black Rhino. The sight of Kilimanjaro against the backdrop of the savannah is truly incredible. This has definitely been a highlight of my journey so far! I must say, seeing the big cats has been the most fascinating experience for me.

Balloon ride over the Masai

Leopard

Cheetah

Kilimanjaro Mountain

Black Rhino

Pride of Lionesses and cubs - no alpha male around 

Iconic African Sunrise

After completing the safari, I returned to Destiny in Dar to prepare to secure her before my return to Malaysia. She would be kept at a mooring, which added the challenge of keeping her tied up without the security of a marina. It was unusual for me to see my home just held in place by a mooring. I anticipated some stressful times ahead.

I needed to arrange for someone to take care of her while I was away. This included checking the ropes, the battery, and the solar panels to ensure they were charged. Most importantly, I wanted to make sure no water was entering Destiny.

After my time in Dar, I set off on my journey back to Malaysia. I planned to return in September to make the necessary preparations for the next leg of my adventure with Destiny. This upcoming leg is particularly significant, as it will allow me to become the first Malaysian to round the Cape of Good Hope from east to west. I am excited about the challenges and experiences that lie ahead, as this milestone represents not just a personal achievement, but also a moment of pride for Malaysia in the world of sailing.

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Sailing to East Africa